Influence de certains corps gras sur le Sun Protection Factor (SPF) mesuré in vitro

Laboratoire de pharmacie industrielle et cosmétologie – EA 2160 (SMAB), 1 rue Gaston Veil 44035 Nantes Cedex 01

^* laurence.coiffard@univ-nantes.fr

Abstract

In order to improve the knowledge on the influence of vehicle on the SPF (Sun Protection Factor), we determined in vitro the SPF from an oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion containing octylmethoxycinnamate (4%). We changed the oily phase composition. The in vitro determination of SPF is based on the physical determination of the reduction of the energy in the UV range, through a film of product which has previously been spread on an adequate substrate. About 30 mg were applied on roughened PMMA plates and the transmission measurements are carried out using a spectrophotometer equipped with integrating sphere. Eighteen oily ingredients were studied. Each one of them was incorporated in the amount of 20%. It is the lanolin which appears most effective SPF booster. Then oils come blackcurrant, argan, sweet almond, sesame, groundnut, carthame and palmotene.