GC-MS analysis of allergens in plant oils meant to cosmetics

¹ Laboratoire de chimie analytique (Faculté de pharmacie) et UMR mixte Aix-Marseille 2 – INSERM 476 – INRA 1260 (Faculté de Médecine), Université de la Méditerranée, 27 Boulevard Jean Moulin, 13385 Marseille Cedex 5, France
² Department of Pharmaceutical Chemistry, Faculty of Pharmacy, Tanta University, Tanta 31527, Egypt

^* Jacques.Kaloustian@pharmacie.univ-mrs.fr

Received: 20 June 2006
Accepted: 20 December 2006

Abstract

Cutaneous allergy occurs mainly as a result of the use of domestic products and cosmetics. Some fragrances, present in these products, may contain compounds that are responsible for allergy (allergens). The European Council offered a Directive limiting the level of 26 allergens found in cosmetics. GC-MS technique was used to determine the retention times of 25 allergens, determine detection and quantification limits and make calibration with standard solution of each allergen in concentrations ranging from 10 to 200 mgL^–1 (21 allergens) and 50 to 200 mgL^–1 (4 allergens). Quantification was performed by the use of 2 internal standards (tetradecane and hexadecane). Seven oils issued from plants were studied by GC-MS. For all of them, the concentration of potential allergens was lower than their minimum detectable level. The alcoholic solution of extracts issued from different samples of oil did not demonstrate the presence of any quantifiable allergen, even when was concentrated 25 times. GC-MS could be a useful technique in the identification and, if necessary, quantification of allergen in ingredients meant to cosmetics.