Table 4
Sensory evaluation (texture and wear on the eyelids after 8 h) and instrumental data (rheological properties and organization at the microscopic and molecular scales) obtained for the positive control (long-lasting formula), the negative control (formula that migrates very quickly into the eyelids) and the new formula based on the mixture of jojoba esters (75/25% w/w butter A/butter B).
| Positive control | New formula to compare | Negative control | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Long-lasting formula with wax and volatile oil | New formula with jojoba esters without wax or volatile oil | Not long-lasting formula without wax, butter or volatile oil | |
| Sensory properties | |||
| Texture | Quite soft paste Easy to spread Not sticky |
Soft paste Easy to spread Not sticky |
Soft paste Easy to spread Slightly sticky |
| Eyeshadow wear after 8 h | No migration | Slight migration | Significant migration |
| Instrumental measurements | |||
| Average viscosity η (.104 Pa.s) 0.01 s−1, 35 °C |
5.5 ± 0.08 | 5.1 ± 0.4 | 2.1 ± 0.2 |
| Yield stress σ0(Pa) From 0.01 to 10−5 s−1, 35 °C |
304.7 ± 23.5 | 237.9 ± 28.3 | 59.9 ± 0.9 |
| Average elastic modulus G’(.105 Pa) From 1 to 2000 Pa, 1 Hz, 35 °C |
3.3 ± 0.3 | 4.4 ± 0.4 | 0.5 ± 0.007 |
| Crystal shape polarized light, 20 °C Crystal size (needles, μm) polarized light, 20 °C |
Not very cohesive clusters of small crystals in needle shape ∼ 10 μm |
Cohesive assembly of large crystals in needle shape ∼ 80 μm |
No birefringence |
| Type of structure (SAXS) and type of packing (WAXS) |
Lamellar structure Orthorhombic packing |
Lamellar structure Orthorhombic packing |
Lamellar structure No short-range order |
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